Post by Katt on Jan 24, 2012 21:45:12 GMT -9
BREEDING GUINEA PIGS
Guinea pigs are social animals who can become depressed if kept alone. It is best to breed in small groups of 3 or more (2 females, 1 male). This way, even if the male must be removed the female has a companion. This also helps to divide the male’s attention between the females and keep from overwhelming an individual.
Esturs Cycle: 16-18 days (interested in male for approx 8-24 hours when in heat)
Female: bare min 5-6 months old and 1.5-2 lb (500g) for safe breeding. NEVER breed a female for the first time after 8 months of age. If she is 8 months or older and has never been bred before, DON'T DO IT - their pelvis cannot expand as the pubic symphisi (joint between two front halves of pelvis) has hardened/calcified (Dyastocia)
Male: 8 months
Gestation period: 9-10 weeks/ 59-73 days, 60-70 days
Delivery approx 1 hr with ave 5 min between babies
Diet: extra vitamin C (at least double - 20mg or triple 200mg of vitamin C or more per day (Article Source: EzineArticles.com/707211 or more per day) and protein
Weaning: pups should be weaned from the sow at approximately 3-4 weeks of age and should weigh from 150 to 200 grams.
Breeding Age: Females GPs should NOT be bred until they are at least 5 months and should NEVER be bred for the first time after 8 months of age. Breeding a female who is not yet mature can have serious consequences including a potentially painful death of the mother and litter and chances of the litter surviving are very small as the female's body is not yet able to support growing young. Breeding a female for the first time after 8 months of age is also incredibly dangerous as after 8 months of age an un-bred female’s pelvis joint (pubic symphisi) will harden and calcify, at this point their pelvis cannot expand to allow babies to pass through (Dyastocia) and a risky C-section will be required to deliver the litter.
Picking a Group:
Females: The female(s) should be between 5 -8 months old and free of any health issues. She should be alert, active, have bright eyes, shiny fur, and good muscle tone. If she is overweight, or especially if she is underweight she should not be bred. Larger females are preferred over smaller females as small females may have more difficulties giving birth, esp when bred to a large male. A female should be at least 1.5-2 lb (500g) before breeding.
Males: Males should be alert, active, healthy etc as well. They should be at least 8-9 months of age to ensure virility. The male should not be significantly larger than the female as this can result in birthing complications due to babies that are too large for the female's birth canal.
Introductions: Before putting a new group together clean the cage with a mild bleach or vinegar solution (rinse very well) and put in new bedding. If one or more of the GP’s were living in the cage prior to coupling, it may be helpful to rearrange the cage (and clean all houses, food dishes, etc as well) so that it is a new territory to all of them. In females who are housed together long-term their estrus cycles will typically begin to line up and they will go into heat at approximately the same time. The best time to introduce a new group is when the female(s) are in heat as they will be more receptive to the male. The male should be removed approximately 3-7 days after the mating (or no less than 6 weeks after mating) to prevent back to back breeding of the females.
Estrus: Female Guinea Pigs go into heat approximately every 16-18 days and will stay in heat for 8-24 hours. You can visibly check to see if she is in heat. The vulva will be pink and open.
Mating: Most rodents mate at night, so you may never actually see them "in action." (Also, this is one of many reasons why providing a natural day-night cycle is important). However, if you are up early enough in the morning you may notice a seminal plug in the female right after mating as described above. These help to keep semen in the female and ensure fertilization. They only stay in for a few hours so if you don't see a plug this does not mean that the female has not been mated. To ensure mating it is best to leave the male in with a group of 2+ females for at least 3 days but no longer than 6 weeks.
Rotating Males: It is best to rotate one male between 2-4 small groups of females. Groups of 2-3 females typically work best, but larger breeding groups are possible with sufficient cage size. However, always be sure to monitor the females to ensure none of them are attacking each other or any of the babies. If you have an aggressive female, she will need to be removed from the breeding program. Rotating males allows the females to have a break between litters, keeping them healthy and able to breed longer. Gestaion is approximately 60-70 days (9-10 weeks) and pups can be weaned at 3-4 weeks of age. For this reason having a minimum of 3-4 breeding groups to one male is ideal. This allows rotations of 3-4 weeks, giving the females a short break after weaning before beginning to breed again. Even if the male is reintroduced right after weaning the last litter, this is still easier on the female than back-to-back breeding (see below for more). However, if you are able to either have 4 female groups, or a separate "vacation cage" for the male (which you should always have on hand anyways in case of fighting or illness) you can give the females a longer break between litters. This is healthier for the females but by rotating between groups you will still have a constant in-flow of litters.
Breeding Back to Back: Guinea Pigs have a gestation period of approximately 9-10 weeks and a weaning period of approximately 21-28 days (see below for more). Females go into heat within a few hours of giving birth. If the male is left in the cage the female will usually become pregnant again right away, allowing the female to breed back to back quite easily if the male is not removed early enough. This means that by the time she finishes weaning her first litter, she will be about halfway through her second pregnancy. This puts a lot of strain on the female as her body is not given time to recuperate in between litters and will wear out the female much earlier.
Gestation: The gestation period for a guinea pig is approximately 9-10 weeks. At about 5 weeks you should be able to feel the babies moving inside of the mother – be gentle when handling so as not to hurt the mother or babies. You may notice the female gaining significant weight towards the end of the pregnancy – she may reach up to double her previous weight! The belly will look round and taut and the nipples may begin to look slightly swollen. While every female carries slightly differently (just like humans do), you can typically see 2 rounded bulges on either side. The nipples will swell and may become slightly red (watch for bright red coloration on and around the nipples and excessive swelling as infections are possible). You may also notice her drinking more water, so ensure that plenty of food, water, and a source of vitamin C are available.
Litters: Guinea Pigs have litter ranging from 1-8 pups with an average litter size of 3. Larger litters are not uncommon. Pups are born covered in hair and with eyes open.
Weaning: Pups should be weaned at about 3-4 weeks of age and should weight between 150-200 g. Males and females should be separated at this time as well to prevent unwanted and unhealthy breeding.
Setting up a Cage: A breeding cage should allow sufficient space for a breeding group and their young litter. The cage should have soft, clean bedding and nesting material like toilet paper, paper towels, cardboard, and newspaper should be provided to allow the does to nest. Water and food should be easily accessible, and low enough for young weanling GPs to reach easily. There should be a nice dark hide for the does to build a nest and raise pups, and preferably an additional hide so that mom can take a break from the babies on occasion. NEVER leave an exercise wheel in the cage with a nursing mother. Remove any wheels in the last week of pregnancy, and do not put it back until the pups are weaned, or close to weaning. Females can become addicted to the wheel and neglect their young in favor of the wheel. Also, babies can get hit and caught in the wheel as they try to reach their mother to nurse.
Holdbacks for future breeding: You may want to keep some of your young GPs for future breeders. This has multiple benefits: you know the genetics of the GP, you know the health of the GP and it's parents, you know the breeding productivity of the GP’s parents, and you don't have to spend money buying a new pet store animal. It is a good idea to keep track of each GP’s linage, and to occasionally bring in "new blood." With any new addition, be sure to quarantine before allowing contact with your healthy animals.
Genetics: It is very important to know and understand basic genetics before you begin breeding. You should know the genetic background of your breeders so you are not breeding GPs that have recessive or lethal mutations, or other genetic disorders in their backgrounds. Having a good understanding of Guinea Pig genetics will help you ensure that you are producing healthy Guinea Pigs. Line breeding can be very useful in eliminating genetic mutations from a strain when done properly – be sure to do your research well before beginning.
Other things to know: Female GPs who are pregnant or nursing need a higher amounts of protein and vitamin C in their diet. This can be accomplished by feeding the occasional cooked egg (hard boiled or scrambled, plain), fresh fruits, and using vitamin supplements.
Guinea pigs are social animals who can become depressed if kept alone. It is best to breed in small groups of 3 or more (2 females, 1 male). This way, even if the male must be removed the female has a companion. This also helps to divide the male’s attention between the females and keep from overwhelming an individual.
Esturs Cycle: 16-18 days (interested in male for approx 8-24 hours when in heat)
Female: bare min 5-6 months old and 1.5-2 lb (500g) for safe breeding. NEVER breed a female for the first time after 8 months of age. If she is 8 months or older and has never been bred before, DON'T DO IT - their pelvis cannot expand as the pubic symphisi (joint between two front halves of pelvis) has hardened/calcified (Dyastocia)
Male: 8 months
Gestation period: 9-10 weeks/ 59-73 days, 60-70 days
Delivery approx 1 hr with ave 5 min between babies
Diet: extra vitamin C (at least double - 20mg or triple 200mg of vitamin C or more per day (Article Source: EzineArticles.com/707211 or more per day) and protein
Weaning: pups should be weaned from the sow at approximately 3-4 weeks of age and should weigh from 150 to 200 grams.
Breeding Age: Females GPs should NOT be bred until they are at least 5 months and should NEVER be bred for the first time after 8 months of age. Breeding a female who is not yet mature can have serious consequences including a potentially painful death of the mother and litter and chances of the litter surviving are very small as the female's body is not yet able to support growing young. Breeding a female for the first time after 8 months of age is also incredibly dangerous as after 8 months of age an un-bred female’s pelvis joint (pubic symphisi) will harden and calcify, at this point their pelvis cannot expand to allow babies to pass through (Dyastocia) and a risky C-section will be required to deliver the litter.
Picking a Group:
Females: The female(s) should be between 5 -8 months old and free of any health issues. She should be alert, active, have bright eyes, shiny fur, and good muscle tone. If she is overweight, or especially if she is underweight she should not be bred. Larger females are preferred over smaller females as small females may have more difficulties giving birth, esp when bred to a large male. A female should be at least 1.5-2 lb (500g) before breeding.
Males: Males should be alert, active, healthy etc as well. They should be at least 8-9 months of age to ensure virility. The male should not be significantly larger than the female as this can result in birthing complications due to babies that are too large for the female's birth canal.
Introductions: Before putting a new group together clean the cage with a mild bleach or vinegar solution (rinse very well) and put in new bedding. If one or more of the GP’s were living in the cage prior to coupling, it may be helpful to rearrange the cage (and clean all houses, food dishes, etc as well) so that it is a new territory to all of them. In females who are housed together long-term their estrus cycles will typically begin to line up and they will go into heat at approximately the same time. The best time to introduce a new group is when the female(s) are in heat as they will be more receptive to the male. The male should be removed approximately 3-7 days after the mating (or no less than 6 weeks after mating) to prevent back to back breeding of the females.
Estrus: Female Guinea Pigs go into heat approximately every 16-18 days and will stay in heat for 8-24 hours. You can visibly check to see if she is in heat. The vulva will be pink and open.
Mating: Most rodents mate at night, so you may never actually see them "in action." (Also, this is one of many reasons why providing a natural day-night cycle is important). However, if you are up early enough in the morning you may notice a seminal plug in the female right after mating as described above. These help to keep semen in the female and ensure fertilization. They only stay in for a few hours so if you don't see a plug this does not mean that the female has not been mated. To ensure mating it is best to leave the male in with a group of 2+ females for at least 3 days but no longer than 6 weeks.
Rotating Males: It is best to rotate one male between 2-4 small groups of females. Groups of 2-3 females typically work best, but larger breeding groups are possible with sufficient cage size. However, always be sure to monitor the females to ensure none of them are attacking each other or any of the babies. If you have an aggressive female, she will need to be removed from the breeding program. Rotating males allows the females to have a break between litters, keeping them healthy and able to breed longer. Gestaion is approximately 60-70 days (9-10 weeks) and pups can be weaned at 3-4 weeks of age. For this reason having a minimum of 3-4 breeding groups to one male is ideal. This allows rotations of 3-4 weeks, giving the females a short break after weaning before beginning to breed again. Even if the male is reintroduced right after weaning the last litter, this is still easier on the female than back-to-back breeding (see below for more). However, if you are able to either have 4 female groups, or a separate "vacation cage" for the male (which you should always have on hand anyways in case of fighting or illness) you can give the females a longer break between litters. This is healthier for the females but by rotating between groups you will still have a constant in-flow of litters.
Breeding Back to Back: Guinea Pigs have a gestation period of approximately 9-10 weeks and a weaning period of approximately 21-28 days (see below for more). Females go into heat within a few hours of giving birth. If the male is left in the cage the female will usually become pregnant again right away, allowing the female to breed back to back quite easily if the male is not removed early enough. This means that by the time she finishes weaning her first litter, she will be about halfway through her second pregnancy. This puts a lot of strain on the female as her body is not given time to recuperate in between litters and will wear out the female much earlier.
Gestation: The gestation period for a guinea pig is approximately 9-10 weeks. At about 5 weeks you should be able to feel the babies moving inside of the mother – be gentle when handling so as not to hurt the mother or babies. You may notice the female gaining significant weight towards the end of the pregnancy – she may reach up to double her previous weight! The belly will look round and taut and the nipples may begin to look slightly swollen. While every female carries slightly differently (just like humans do), you can typically see 2 rounded bulges on either side. The nipples will swell and may become slightly red (watch for bright red coloration on and around the nipples and excessive swelling as infections are possible). You may also notice her drinking more water, so ensure that plenty of food, water, and a source of vitamin C are available.
Litters: Guinea Pigs have litter ranging from 1-8 pups with an average litter size of 3. Larger litters are not uncommon. Pups are born covered in hair and with eyes open.
Weaning: Pups should be weaned at about 3-4 weeks of age and should weight between 150-200 g. Males and females should be separated at this time as well to prevent unwanted and unhealthy breeding.
Setting up a Cage: A breeding cage should allow sufficient space for a breeding group and their young litter. The cage should have soft, clean bedding and nesting material like toilet paper, paper towels, cardboard, and newspaper should be provided to allow the does to nest. Water and food should be easily accessible, and low enough for young weanling GPs to reach easily. There should be a nice dark hide for the does to build a nest and raise pups, and preferably an additional hide so that mom can take a break from the babies on occasion. NEVER leave an exercise wheel in the cage with a nursing mother. Remove any wheels in the last week of pregnancy, and do not put it back until the pups are weaned, or close to weaning. Females can become addicted to the wheel and neglect their young in favor of the wheel. Also, babies can get hit and caught in the wheel as they try to reach their mother to nurse.
Holdbacks for future breeding: You may want to keep some of your young GPs for future breeders. This has multiple benefits: you know the genetics of the GP, you know the health of the GP and it's parents, you know the breeding productivity of the GP’s parents, and you don't have to spend money buying a new pet store animal. It is a good idea to keep track of each GP’s linage, and to occasionally bring in "new blood." With any new addition, be sure to quarantine before allowing contact with your healthy animals.
Genetics: It is very important to know and understand basic genetics before you begin breeding. You should know the genetic background of your breeders so you are not breeding GPs that have recessive or lethal mutations, or other genetic disorders in their backgrounds. Having a good understanding of Guinea Pig genetics will help you ensure that you are producing healthy Guinea Pigs. Line breeding can be very useful in eliminating genetic mutations from a strain when done properly – be sure to do your research well before beginning.
Other things to know: Female GPs who are pregnant or nursing need a higher amounts of protein and vitamin C in their diet. This can be accomplished by feeding the occasional cooked egg (hard boiled or scrambled, plain), fresh fruits, and using vitamin supplements.