Post by Katt on Sept 15, 2011 14:38:56 GMT -9
Facts:
Scientific Name:Cavia porcellus
Weight: 700-1200g (varies according to type)
Size: 20-25 cm long
Life expectancy: 4-5 years (some have been known to live up to 8 years)
Sexually mature: 3-5 weeks (males tend to mature earlier than females - this is in general and can vary by individual so a safe bet is to separate males and females at 3-4 weeks)
Estrus Cycle: x
Gestation period: 59-72 days
Size of litter: 1-6 (average size of 3)
Weaning age: x
Care:
Guinea pigs are very social animals and should never be keps alone. Solo pigs tend to become bored, lonely, are more easily stressed out, and can also become severely depressed - leading to a greater risk of health issues. They do best in small groups of 2 or more and are known to form bonded pairs. Female+female, or female+neutered male combos work quite well. Males can be kept together, but it is best if they are introduced at a young age. Males and females over the age of 3-4 weeks should not be kept together unless actively breeding or one (gender) has been neutered. Remember that they need a minimum of 2 square feet per pig, so the bigger your group the bigger the cage you will need.
Cage: Guinea Pigs require a minimum floor-space of 2 square feet per animal. So if you have 2 GP's in one cage, the cage should be 4 square feet...etc. Keep in mind that this is a minimum and bigger is always better. GPs are not very good climbers, so shelves are not recommended. GPs could easily fall and get hurt. If you are able to provide a large shelf that has a high guard rail, and a ramp with sides (so they cannot fall off of the ramp) then adding levels to the cage is a great way to give them more space to explore.
Bedding: Many substrates are appropriate for GP's, but there are some that are dangerous. Fleece is a great bedding option. It looks nice, comes in fun patterns, and is cozy for the GPs. Putting a layer of absorbent bedding (such as puppy potty pads) under the fleece will wick away any moisture from accidents or non-potty trained pigs, and keep the fleece nice and dry. The top two recommended particulate bedding materials are Aspen shavings or Carefresh. Other appropriate bedding materials include: newspaper or paper towel (good for monitoring sick mice), toilet paper, shredded paper fiber beddings, etc. NEVER use pine or cedar bedding as these woods have oils that are toxic to rodents and other small animals.
Food: (see Diet board) In the wild guinea pigs eat a diet of primarily grass. Domestic Guinea pigs should have a constant supply of fresh hay, with Timothy hay being the staple and other hays added in for variety. They also need fresh pellets daily (Oxbow is the best brand, after that Kleenmamma's, KMS, and ZuPreem are good options). In addition to the hay and pellets, Guinea pigs should receive fresh foods daily. Without the fresh foods, they will be at a significantly higher risk of Vit C deficiency. Without Vitamin C in their diet, GP's can and WILL get Scurvy. Fresh foods should include daily fresh veggies, greens, and fruits. Fruits should be kept to a few times a week rather than daily due to their sugar content. Red peppers are a very good source of Vitamin C, and should be offered daily in addition to a variety of other veggies. Veterinary Partner has a very good chart of veggies and greens:
www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=2750
Hay should be kept up so that it does not get urinated/defecated on. Remember, this is their primary food source – it should be clean. For people with hay allergies, a hay bag is highly recommended. This will keep the hay contained (also keeps the cage cleaner, and keeps the hay from being urinated on) and minimize dust. Bags can be made out of fleece, with a few large holes at the bottom for them to pull the hay out of, and a larger hole at the top to fill the hay up. If you make the bag yourself, be sure to leave ties so that the top of the bag can be sealed shut after being filled. This minimizes your contact with the hay, keeps the hay from getting all over the cage, and minimizes dust by keeping it all contained in the fleece bag. Hay nets or racks are another option for people who do not have allergies.
Toys: Guinea pigs are very interactive animals and Love toys. Jingle balls for cats, hanging chew toys with bells and different shaped blocks, hanging bird mirrors, etc are all fun. Use your imagination and try to rotate out toys so that your GP does not get bored. Having a variety of hiding spots is important as well so they can feel secure, and so they have different nooks to explore in their cage. Rearranging the cage periodically will keep things interesting for them. Also, be sure to let your piggies out for regular exercise and exploring time. They will appreciate the attention, and exploring different rooms of the house will be fun for them and for you!
Please keep in mind that wheels and balls are NOT good for Guinea Pigs. These cause them to arch their long spines (they are longer than they look!) and can cause serious back problems.
Water: Water bottles should be available, full of fresh water, at all times. Bowls are not recommended as they easily spill or become contaminated. However, some Guinea Pigs love to play in water bowls, so providing a shallow dish of water will offer both hydration and enrichment for your pet. You should still keep a bottle available in case the bowl becomes dirty or gets spilled while you are not at home.
Exercise: Exercise (both physical and mental) is very important to keep your guinea pig healthy. Unfortunately, most guinea pigs do not show much interest in wheels and balls. Providing ramps to other levels, and fun toys in the cage can help keep them physically and mentally stimulated. They should be allowed to roam out of their cage for a minimum of one hour a day as well. Again, this provides both mental and physical exercise and will keep your GP healthy and happy. It is a great time to relax and bond with your GP as well.
Handling: How you handle your GP depends on what your they are being kept for. Even if your GP's are breeders or feeders, regular handling is important. We recommend a bare minimum of 30 min every day. This will keep the GP used to handling and make it easier for you to check for injuries, move for cage cleaning, check nests, etc. If your GP's are pets you will want to handle them even more. The more you handle and spend time with yur pet mice, the friendlier and more social towards humans they will be. For pets, a minimum of 1 hour per day handling/interaction is recommended.
Scientific Name:Cavia porcellus
Weight: 700-1200g (varies according to type)
Size: 20-25 cm long
Life expectancy: 4-5 years (some have been known to live up to 8 years)
Sexually mature: 3-5 weeks (males tend to mature earlier than females - this is in general and can vary by individual so a safe bet is to separate males and females at 3-4 weeks)
Estrus Cycle: x
Gestation period: 59-72 days
Size of litter: 1-6 (average size of 3)
Weaning age: x
Care:
Guinea pigs are very social animals and should never be keps alone. Solo pigs tend to become bored, lonely, are more easily stressed out, and can also become severely depressed - leading to a greater risk of health issues. They do best in small groups of 2 or more and are known to form bonded pairs. Female+female, or female+neutered male combos work quite well. Males can be kept together, but it is best if they are introduced at a young age. Males and females over the age of 3-4 weeks should not be kept together unless actively breeding or one (gender) has been neutered. Remember that they need a minimum of 2 square feet per pig, so the bigger your group the bigger the cage you will need.
Cage: Guinea Pigs require a minimum floor-space of 2 square feet per animal. So if you have 2 GP's in one cage, the cage should be 4 square feet...etc. Keep in mind that this is a minimum and bigger is always better. GPs are not very good climbers, so shelves are not recommended. GPs could easily fall and get hurt. If you are able to provide a large shelf that has a high guard rail, and a ramp with sides (so they cannot fall off of the ramp) then adding levels to the cage is a great way to give them more space to explore.
Bedding: Many substrates are appropriate for GP's, but there are some that are dangerous. Fleece is a great bedding option. It looks nice, comes in fun patterns, and is cozy for the GPs. Putting a layer of absorbent bedding (such as puppy potty pads) under the fleece will wick away any moisture from accidents or non-potty trained pigs, and keep the fleece nice and dry. The top two recommended particulate bedding materials are Aspen shavings or Carefresh. Other appropriate bedding materials include: newspaper or paper towel (good for monitoring sick mice), toilet paper, shredded paper fiber beddings, etc. NEVER use pine or cedar bedding as these woods have oils that are toxic to rodents and other small animals.
Food: (see Diet board) In the wild guinea pigs eat a diet of primarily grass. Domestic Guinea pigs should have a constant supply of fresh hay, with Timothy hay being the staple and other hays added in for variety. They also need fresh pellets daily (Oxbow is the best brand, after that Kleenmamma's, KMS, and ZuPreem are good options). In addition to the hay and pellets, Guinea pigs should receive fresh foods daily. Without the fresh foods, they will be at a significantly higher risk of Vit C deficiency. Without Vitamin C in their diet, GP's can and WILL get Scurvy. Fresh foods should include daily fresh veggies, greens, and fruits. Fruits should be kept to a few times a week rather than daily due to their sugar content. Red peppers are a very good source of Vitamin C, and should be offered daily in addition to a variety of other veggies. Veterinary Partner has a very good chart of veggies and greens:
www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&S=0&C=0&A=2750
Hay should be kept up so that it does not get urinated/defecated on. Remember, this is their primary food source – it should be clean. For people with hay allergies, a hay bag is highly recommended. This will keep the hay contained (also keeps the cage cleaner, and keeps the hay from being urinated on) and minimize dust. Bags can be made out of fleece, with a few large holes at the bottom for them to pull the hay out of, and a larger hole at the top to fill the hay up. If you make the bag yourself, be sure to leave ties so that the top of the bag can be sealed shut after being filled. This minimizes your contact with the hay, keeps the hay from getting all over the cage, and minimizes dust by keeping it all contained in the fleece bag. Hay nets or racks are another option for people who do not have allergies.
Toys: Guinea pigs are very interactive animals and Love toys. Jingle balls for cats, hanging chew toys with bells and different shaped blocks, hanging bird mirrors, etc are all fun. Use your imagination and try to rotate out toys so that your GP does not get bored. Having a variety of hiding spots is important as well so they can feel secure, and so they have different nooks to explore in their cage. Rearranging the cage periodically will keep things interesting for them. Also, be sure to let your piggies out for regular exercise and exploring time. They will appreciate the attention, and exploring different rooms of the house will be fun for them and for you!
Please keep in mind that wheels and balls are NOT good for Guinea Pigs. These cause them to arch their long spines (they are longer than they look!) and can cause serious back problems.
Water: Water bottles should be available, full of fresh water, at all times. Bowls are not recommended as they easily spill or become contaminated. However, some Guinea Pigs love to play in water bowls, so providing a shallow dish of water will offer both hydration and enrichment for your pet. You should still keep a bottle available in case the bowl becomes dirty or gets spilled while you are not at home.
Exercise: Exercise (both physical and mental) is very important to keep your guinea pig healthy. Unfortunately, most guinea pigs do not show much interest in wheels and balls. Providing ramps to other levels, and fun toys in the cage can help keep them physically and mentally stimulated. They should be allowed to roam out of their cage for a minimum of one hour a day as well. Again, this provides both mental and physical exercise and will keep your GP healthy and happy. It is a great time to relax and bond with your GP as well.
Handling: How you handle your GP depends on what your they are being kept for. Even if your GP's are breeders or feeders, regular handling is important. We recommend a bare minimum of 30 min every day. This will keep the GP used to handling and make it easier for you to check for injuries, move for cage cleaning, check nests, etc. If your GP's are pets you will want to handle them even more. The more you handle and spend time with yur pet mice, the friendlier and more social towards humans they will be. For pets, a minimum of 1 hour per day handling/interaction is recommended.
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